Day 10 - Four Corners

Day 10 – Farmington, New Mexico to Kanab, Utah

I managed to take in four states today. No, it’s not because I’m directionally challenged this time, however I did make a wrong turn out of Shiprock, New Mexico which cost me about 10 miles down 491 South. Didn’t feel quite right that I was headed south when my general direction should take me to the northwest. I left Farmington in a cool 62F which caused me to slip a light sweatshirt under my jacket. I was toodling along at the posted speed of 55mph (well, maybe slightly over) when I was overtaken and passed by four shiny Goldwings. Feeling a little lonely since my iPod has been frozen AGAIN for the past 24 hrs, I decide to tag along for a while. Zoom! Theses fellas are riding between 75-80 which is no easy feat considering this secondary road is very wheel rutted and has unexpected surprises of some mean potholes. Takes a lot of my attention but it sure makes the miles pass fast. I pull off for fuel and wave goodbye. Wonder where they’re headed.

Entering Arizona, it would appear they have a much higher budget for road works as the highway is in substantially better condition. At Teec Nos Pos, I decide to take a little side trip up to the Four Corners Monument. After paying the $3.00 gate fee, going up to park Paladin I am happy to see the four “Wings” I had been riding with earlier. They are very curious about me, noting that I am riding on Texas license plates and having a Canadian flag on the back of the bike. Two of them are brothers, one living in Washington State and the other in Tyler, Texas very near where I had bought Paladin. Every year, they take a couple of weeks of vacation, ride toward each other, then tour around for a week and then head back home in opposite directions. They offer to take my picture on the monument. Four corners straddles 4 states, New Mexico, Colorado, Utah and Arizona. One gentleman lay down spread eagle so he could have his picture taken with a limb in each of the states. I wanted to place a telephone call but my cell phone was registering Emergency Only ??? Drat! Then one of the brother’s phone started ringing and he answered. “Hi Honey. Where am I??? Well right now I’m in Colorado, no I’m in New Mexico, now I’m in Colorado and headed to Arizona”. When he concluded his call I asked him if he knew why my cell would only make emergency calls and he seemed to have no trouble with his. He didn’t know but thrust his phone at me and said “Here, do you want to make a call?” I thanked him and said no it would be a long distance call to Canada. He said “Oh, that’s Okay – it’s a company phone anyway and I’ve got a great plan”. Feeling nostalgic, I made my call to a couple we had been at Four Corners with a few years back. There was no answer so I had to make do with leaving a voice mail. They may be surprised to see Tyler, Texas on their call display. Arizona, being owned in majority by the Navajo nation have set up Four Corners with rows of booths selling their silver, turquoise and other native arts. I have a look through and buy a couple of small things to take home. Not much room for souvenirs of the trip. I remember Daryl saying “There’s always UPS” but not out here and not on a Sunday afternoon.

Leaving Four Corners, where the temperature is now in the low 80’s, it’s an absolutely flawless day. There is not a single cloud in the sky which is a brilliant azure blue. As I head towards Kayenta, the scenery is breathtakingly beautiful. The earth, so red it seems almost to be bleeding; one can only wonder at the forces of nature that have caused the eruptions in the earth where suddenly strange formations of rock heave up from a seemingly flat landscape. Here is where I really love the difference between my sport bike and the new cruiser. The windshield, (which is a perfect height - thank you Robert for the adjustment) allows me to turn my head and enjoy the view without fear that my head is going to be torn from my neck from the wind force. In answer to your query Bernie, Paladin is an exceptionally comfortable ride and I am not “saddle sore” but I do experience some soreness between my shoulder blades. I think this is just getting used to a new riding style and the bars are quite a bit wider. Towards the end of a long day, my tailbone is a bit sore but nothing a hot shower doesn’t seem to cure.


I fuel in Kayenta and there is a loooooong stretch of brand new blacktop beckoning.
I can’t resist. I open the throttle and give him his head. He easily rises to the challenge and quickly and smoothly we are at 100 MPH. I have a HUGE smile on my face! I slow it down to a low flying speed and good thing. I round a long sweeper and there are 3 horses grazing at the side of the road. There are no fences here, and knowing they can sometimes be unpredictable I brake. Hard. Sure enough, one of them decides it’s a good time to mosey on to the other side of the highway. I beep my horn which sounds quite ineffectual but he stays put, partly in my lane and proceeds to cross when I’ve passed by. I can hear the brakes of the car I passed a while back and hope he gets through safely. Hitting an animal like that can do pretty extensive damage. To both parties.

Coming into Page, Arizona, and seeing the beautiful blue of Lake Powell is so refreshing. It is now in the low 90’s and seeing water, somehow psychologically just makes you feel cooler. I stop before the bridge to take some photos overlooking the hydro electric power plant.

I’ve made quite a number of stops today which is reflected in the time I arrive at my destination for the day. Kanab, Utah. I fuel my bike so it’s ready for tomorrow’s ride into Nevada and make my way to the Shilo Inn. Bonus! They have laundry facilities on site and I am definitely needing to do some. I was almost afraid I would have to resort to what our pal Daryl calls, fresh underwear while motorcycling and how to get 4 days out of the same pair. Day one they go on as per usual. Day two, you wear them backwards. Day three, inside out and day four, inside out and backwards. Yikes!!!! I must be too much of a girl! Didn’t want to face another restaurant on my own tonight so I make do with an apple, compliments of the Shilo Inn. As I had been up til after 1:00 a.m. last night writing, I am feeling tuckered out. I place a call to my brother Dave in Lillooet, BC to update them on my progress and it is terrific to hear his voice and that of my sister-in-law Sak. Rod calls and we go over my routing for tomorrow. Lots of road changes here so I’ll need to be paying attention. Wonder of wonders! My iPod is now “un-frozen” so it is back on the charger and hopefully will behave better tomorrow.

It is now Monday morning and still quite dark outside at 6:30 a.m. I check the weather channel and it’s only 32F. How can that possibly be when it was over 90F when I pulled in. Reminds me of a trip we took into Jackson Hole, Wyoming where we rode in at 5:00 P.M. in 100+F and in the morning there was ice on the seats of our bikes. I check the weather for where I am headed in Nevada today. 27F. Brrrrrrrr! That’s below freezing. Definitely time to break out my leather jacket and chaps. Well, on the bright side, my chaps will keep my jeans cleaner!

I’m just finishing up the “continental breakfast” here at the motel. They don’t subscribe to the low carb lifestyle here.

Please keep those comments and emails coming. It’s wonderful to get “mail from home”. Gets a little lonely out here at times and I get pretty excited to hear from y’all!

Cheers!